AKIRA in 3D (4k) - YouTube
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 19h ago 100%

    Damn... Now I want to see the entire Akira redone like that.

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  • CNC Kitchen – What is the best way to dry your desiccant? (microwave)
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 21h ago 100%

    the blue gel was phased out decade(s) ago

    But I can still buy it?

    Good advice though. That's why I come to Lemmy: I learn useful stuff all the time.

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  • CNC Kitchen – What is the best way to dry your desiccant? (microwave)
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 22h ago 100%

    not using it with a food microwave

    The microwave sits in the workshop and is not for cooking food. It's strictly to do nasty stuff with materials I work with.

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  • CNC Kitchen – What is the best way to dry your desiccant? (microwave)
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 1d ago 100%

    I use industrial silicagel granules that I buy in 5-liter jugs. The granules are blue when dry and turn purple/red when they no longer absorbs humidity. Then I throw them in the microwave for 5 minutes and the granules turn blue again - and scalding hot too.

    It's not perfect because it gradually turns more and more silicagel granules to dust as they explode like popcorn. So after maybe 10 to 15 cycles, the silicagel becomes ineffective and the blue granules turn more and more to brown, Then it's time to throw it away and use a fresh batch.

    It's possible to extend the life of the granules by drying them in a regular oven at low heat rather than in the microwave at full pelt but it's slow and annoying, and silicagel isn't that expensive, so I don't bother.

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  • Is there any privacy-friendly way to use Facebook on iOS?
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 2d ago 100%

    I was about to post something similar to your reply. But OP says this, which is a reasonable explanation why they need (not want mind you) to use Facebook:

    [...] Facebook Marketplace. Here in Australia, there’s simply no better alternative if you want to reach a large number of potentially interested buyers (or even buy some stuff yourself). The supermarket noticeboard is no more

    As for iOS, OP said they abhorred commercial social media. They said nothing about their feelings towards abusive monopolistic OS platforms, so I assume they're happy in their Apple prison.

    The sad part of this story is that fucking Zuckerberg managed to make himself unavoidable in Australia apparently. That's the real takeaway from OP's post.

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 3d ago 100%

    I usually use 0.4 because it lets me print connectors that holds pogo pins with a 0.05" pitch. But it's slow for big things.

    I don't usually print big things with tiny features, so I could have one extruder with a smaller nozzle and one with a larger one and use one or the other. But if I could use both at the same time, it would speed up printing of even my small connectors - because obviously not the entire connector requires fine features.

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 3d ago 100%

    I didn't know about the Voron, but it looks great! But it also looks like it's quite a project and not something I could get going quick.

    But I wonder if perhaps it would be a good idea to buy a cheap second-hand Prusa and build a Voron with it. Then I'd have a printer to print stuff at least as good as the one at work, and also work slowly towards building me a better one.

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 3d ago 100%

    Glad to hear that!

    Do you have more than one extruder with yours? I read it's not possible to have several nozzle sizes. As in, say one extruder with a large nozzle for quick printing and one with a smaller one for details. Is this true? Did you try that yourself by any chance?

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 3d ago 100%

    What is your tolerance for tinkering?

    High. My problem is time. Between my work and my other activities, I don't really have the time to spend hours messing about with a 3D printer. So if I can't get it going good once and for all over a weekend, I suspect it'll be sitting there for weeks and that's going to be frustrated.

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 4d ago 100%

    There are flexible resins.

    Yeah but what I intend to print has 90% support and 10% flexible bits. That will be super-wasteful, not to mention I read somewhere that supports made of flexible materials tend to be a bitch to remove.

    If you're curious, I intend to design custom shoes for foot amputees. And if they work well for me, I'd like to come up with some software to let others in my situation scan their feet and print their own custom-made shoes too.

    Kind of like what Ian Davis is doing for finger amputees, but for feet - since that's what concerns me. I really like his approach and I'd like to follow in his footsteps.

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 4d ago 100%

    Interesting this one, thanks!

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 4d ago 100%

    Yes I kind of wrote off Bambu for those reasons - not least of which because Bambu was founded by former DJI employees, which in and of itself is alarming if you care about privacy.

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  • Help me choose a 3D printer of my own
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 4d ago 87%

    Put it on its own wifi guest network so it’s isolated from the rest of your devices.

    It sounds like getting an angry ferret because it's cheaper and keeping it in a cage to avoid getting bitten when i could get a nice cuddly cat for a bit more.

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  • So I've been exploring the fabulous word of additive manufacturing for a few months now with my company's 3D printer - a Prusa Mk4 - that we employees are welcome to use for our own personal use when it's not busy printing tooling for work of course. I've gotten really good at squeezing the most performance out of that thing: some of the functional parts I made with it at scales that are pushing the boundaries of what regular PLA out of a 0.4-mm nozzle can be coaxed into becoming, I'm properly proud of. And I'm having a lot of fun finding ways to overcome the limitations of FDM. I don't really want a more precise printer: half the fun is witnessing a part that shouldn't exist come out of a printer that doesn't really have any right to be this good. Pushing the envelope... It's the spirit of hacking in the world of 3D printing and I love it! But now I'm wanting a printer of my own. The company's printer is fine and all but when it's doing work-related things, I can't use it. And I have to wait to go back to work the next day to print something I modeled the evening before. So I'm on the market for a good fast FDM printer that can print prints with different filaments at the same time, because I'd like to experiment with stretchy materials but keep using rigid and cheap materials for the supports, and also to play with colors. And I think I want a core XY printer because I've run into problems with big heavy prints with the company's bed slinger. And finally, something that's really important for me: I want something as open source as possible that doesn't phone home, and ideally not made in China. Money is not tight. The kids are out of the house and I have a well-paid job. I set my budget to 5k - dollars or euros. So with those requirements in mind, from what I read, the best option for me is to stick with Prusa: it's more expensive for what it does but it's not sketchy Chinese spyware. Also, I know the brand already and I've been nothing but happy with it so far. And in the Prusa line, I'm tempted by the XL with an the bells and whistles - namely 5 heads and an enclosure. But here's the thing: I hear this machine has problems. Is it true? Would you have a better suggestion? Possibly another brand that I should consider?

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    "Initials" by "Florian Körner", licensed under "CC0 1.0". / Remix of the original. - Created with dicebear.comInitialsFlorian Körnerhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearLE
    Jump
    How do I contact the mods of a Lemmy community directly, all at the same time?
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 5d ago 33%
    -2
  • My new specs
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 6d ago 100%

    Would you mind sharing/posting an STL/3MF for these?

    Sure why not:

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OCSqwFELqijvBGu-RSTE6qJC__iZBqEd)

    Also, is that Galaxy Black filament?

    The filament was generic PLA - or perhaps Prusament PLA, which is generic PLA with a fancy name from Prusa, I'm not sure what spool was loaded.

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  • [SOLVED] Why is FreeCAD symmetry-stupid?
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 6d ago 100%

    You didn’t select “Create Symmetry Constraints”.

    Oh...

    Damn I feel stupid. I totally missed that somehow.

    Thanks a lot, you rock! I learned something new today. I guess it was worth asking the question after all 🙂

    Are you making sunglasses?

    No, I'm making regular frames for a friend because he saw the ones I made for myself a couple days ago and he asked whether I could print him new frames to reuse his old lenses.

    One thing I see that may come back to bite you later: You can create sketches that make multiple bodies when padded

    I just used that sketch for the example.

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  • [SOLVED] Why is FreeCAD symmetry-stupid?
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 6d ago 100%

    FWIW, this is what I get when I try to mirror a complex sketch:

    https://toobnix.org/w/njayYNd5vE1HKNM3XVqYNM

    Really not what I want.

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  • [SOLVED] Why is FreeCAD symmetry-stupid?
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 6d ago 100%

    Also, unrelated, but you must be the first person I've seen post a Vimeo link in the past 10 years. And I'm not even exaggerating 🙂

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  • [SOLVED] Why is FreeCAD symmetry-stupid?
  • ExtremeDullard ExtremeDullard 6d ago 100%

    Thanks!

    Oh wow yeah, that's more like it. Totally not what I'm getting.

    I guess I'm gonna have to dig into the settings, see if something controls the tool's behavior. Or possibly wipe my config and start afresh, see if I might have inherited some settings from an old 0.22 beta or something.

    Okay so not perfect, like you said, but at least I know I should be able to get something workable.

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  • Maybe there's something I don't understand here. I'd love it if someone told me how to do the following. Let's say I have some really complex shape in a sketch left of the Y axis: it takes me forever to get it just right. Then I need to mirror it on the right side of the Y axis and connect the two halves. In SolidWorks, it's trivial: mirror the stuff, done. If you change the master shape on the left, the change is reflected on the right. In FreeCAD, the best you can do is make a mirror *copy* of the left-hand side elements - which also makes copies of the constraints which are completely independent from the original constraints on the left-hand side - delete the stupid new right-hand side constraints and slowly, painfully constrain the right-hand side copies to the original left-hand side elements, trying to dodge the dreaded orange over-constraints all the time. It's long, it's painful, and the end-result is usually so fragile that if you change anything significant on the left-hand side, the sketch turns orange and then it's back to hunting broken constraints again. Surely it can't be that painful. Am I missing something obvious?

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    I have a need to repeatedly click in a application's window many times for testing purposes at work. Since I have not intention of doing that manually and developing RSI, I set up i3 to automate this for me. You may find this useful too - for gaming, for instance. **Setup:** - Install [xdotool](https://github.com/jordansissel/xdotool) - Create a Bash script called `start_stop_autoclick.sh`somewhere (I have a `~/scripts` directory in my home directory for that purpose): ``` #!/bin/bash DELAY=$1 BUTTON=$2 CMD=xdotool ARGS="click --delay $DELAY --repeat 99999999999999999" PID=$(ps -C $CMD -o pid,cmd | grep "$ARGS" | cut -d" " -f1) if [ "$PID" ]; then kill $PID else $CMD $ARGS $BUTTON fi ``` - Edit `~/.config/i3/config` and add the following lines: ``` # Start / stop autoclick bindsym $mod+Ctrl+button1 --whole-window exec --no-startup-id /bin/bash ~/scripts/start_stop_autoclick.sh 250 1 bindsym $mod+Ctrl+button2 --whole-window exec --no-startup-id bin/bash ~/scripts/start_stop_autoclick.sh 250 2 bindsym $mod+Ctrl+button3 --whole-window exec --no-startup-id /bin/bash ~/scripts/start_stop_autoclick.sh 250 3 ``` **How to use it:** Hover over the button or element you want to click on repeatedly then press Ctrl+Meta and click with the button you want to autorepeat. Be careful not to move the mouse otherwise it'll start autoclicking where you don't want and possibly wreak havoc in your windows. To stop it, simply hit Ctrl+Meta until it stops. **How to modify it to suit your needs:** The three lines above in `~/.config/i3/config` enable autoclicking on the left, right and middle buttons. If you only want it on one button, ditch the lines you don't need. By default, they autoclick with a delay of 250 ms between clicks (i.e. 4 times per second). If you need it to click slower or faster, change the value of 250 to the delay you need. And of course, change the key modifiers to whatever you want if Ctrl+Meta doesn't work for you.

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    https://lemmy.sdf.org/pictrs/image/97231cc1-dec4-4b25-b848-c9d2eff952f5.png

    I had new progressive lenses made, but the old ones are still fine and don’t have a scratch. They’re just a bit weak at near distance, but otherwise perfectly serviceable. So I made new frames for them because I don’t like to throw away things that work. All assembled, the frames weigh 3.5 grams, and 14 grams with the lenses mounted. This was printed with a Prusa Mk4 and regular PLA at 0.15 mm layer height. The hinges use simple 10x1 pins - and I worked my magic to print the holes horizontally to the final dimension with interference fit, so no reaming or drilling is necessary. These glasses are straight out of the printer with zero rework. I think they look pretty good as they are. If anybody notices they’re 3D-printed, I’ll say I’m gunning for that particular style 🙂 The front of the frames prints in 11 minutes and both temples in 12 minutes. I could break and make a new pair every day for the rest of my life and it would still be faster and cheaper than going to Specsavers only once.

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    [This](https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/23650047) did not make it [here](https://lemmy.world/c/3dprinting).

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    I had new progressive lenses made, but the old ones are still fine and don’t have a scratch. They’re just a bit weak at near distance, but otherwise perfectly serviceable. So I made new frames for them because I don’t like to throw away things that work. All assembled, the frames weigh 3.5 grams, and 14 grams with the lenses mounted. This was printed with a Prusa Mk4 and regular PLA at 0.15 mm layer height. The hinges use simple 10x1 pins - and I worked my magic to print the holes horizontally to the final dimension with interference fit, so no reaming or drilling is necessary. These glasses are straight out of the printer with zero rework. I think they look pretty good as they are. If anybody notices they’re 3D-printed, I’ll say I’m gunning for that particular style 🙂 The front of the frames prints in 11 minutes and both temples in 12 minutes. I could break and make a new pair every day for the rest of my life and it would still be faster and cheaper than going to Specsavers only once.

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    The HVAC service provider I contract with to do the yearly maintenance on my A/C is overcharging me because I "hacked" my A/C. I kid you not! The service guy came today because the A/C blows cold on heat setting. He asked me to turn the A/C on to demonstrate the problem. I couldn't find the remote, so I pulled out my Flipper with the [Mitsubishi A/C Remote app](https://github.com/achistyakov/flipperzero-mitsubishi-ac-remote) - which works fine and which I regularly do when I can't be bothered to go get the remote on the wall when I'm on the couch. The thing turned on, blew cold, so the man set to work. 2 hours later, he comes back with a circuit board telling me he had to change the control unit. Okay fine. And now I get a bill from his company showing a surcharge for extra service work due to unexpected "damage to the electronics caused by an unauthorized piece of equipment". What the actual f... Needless to say, I'll be contracting another company next year.

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    It's that time of the year again. It happens to me once or twice a year: all ten toes itch like a mofo. It comes at random, but usually around fall and spring. It might have something to do with large temperature changes, but no matter what I wear, I still haven't found out how to prevent it happening. I've tried a massage, hot mud pads, cold gel pads, icy-hot balm, going to the sauna, painkillers (the non-addictive kind), and I'm nearing the bottom of this small bottle of bourbon because it's driving me insane. If anybody has any suggestion, I'm all ears.

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    "Initials" by "Florian Körner", licensed under "CC0 1.0". / Remix of the original. - Created with dicebear.comInitialsFlorian Körnerhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearLE
    Lemmy Support ExtremeDullard 3w ago 90%
    How do I post a link to a Youtube video with preview without linking to Youtube itself?

    Hey y'all, I have a problem: sometimes I find a cool video on Youtube and I want to post it in a community I moderate. So I create a post, put the Youtube link in the URL field, and several options get added to the form: - Copy suggested title: <whatever title the video has on Youtube> - archive.org archive link - ghostarchive.org archive link - archive.today archive link I click on the first one to copy the title, no problem. And usually that's it: I post, the post's preview shows a snapshot from the video and clicking on it sends me to the Youtube video. Great! Now here's my problem: I would prefer not to link to Youtube directly So I tried replacing the direct link with any of the 3 proposed links, and it doesn't go all that well: - The archive.org link seemingly never works - The ghostarchive.org link works but no preview image is generated, which makes the post a bit boring - The archive.today link redirects to a archive.ph link which is account-walled Does anybody know how to create a post with a preview image that links to a Youtube video archived someplace else? And yes, I'm aware that I could also report the video on my PeerTube. The problem is, SDF only has limited resources and I'd rather not upload huge videos there. They don't need the burden.

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    https://youtu.be/S3zQIz-owvE

    What a fabulous passive articulated foot! It's very light - about half the weight of a real foot - and it looks easy and cheap to manufacture, so that everyone could afford one. In fact, it looks simple enough that most parts could be 3D-printed. More information here: [Introducing SoftFoot Pro: a cutting-edge motorless, flexible and waterproof artificial foot](https://opentalk.iit.it/en/introducing-softfoot-pro-a-cutting-edge-motorless-flexible-and-waterproof-artificial-foot/) From the [Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia](https://www.iit.it/) in Genoa in collaboration with the [Centro E. Piaggio of the University of Pisa](https://www.centropiaggio.unipi.it/).

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    Earlier this week my company bought a LIDAR from [Ouster](https://ouster.com/). The LIDAR is a network device: it has an ethernet interface, it gets its IP from a DHCP server and then it talks to whichever machine runs the [Ouster application](https://ouster.com/products/software/ouster-studio). The engineers and the marketing guy in charge of evaluating it installed the software on a Windows 11 laptop and tried to make it work for 2 days, to no avail. The software simply wouldn’t connect. So they came to me, the unofficial company “hacker”, to figure it out. And I did: the culprit, as always, was the Windows firewall. Because of course… But here’s the twist: because it’s Windows, you need some sort of additional antivirus on top of it. Our company uses WithSecure, which is phenomenally annoying and intrusive, and constantly gets in your way when you try to do any work in Windows that isn't Word or Excel. And of course, WithSecure wouldn’t let me punch a hole in the Windows firewall, because of course… Anyhow, after trying to work around Windows and the hateful compulsory antivirus, I called IT and told them I needed WithSecure disabled, at least temporarily. They told me to fuck off because they’re not letting an unsecured Windows machine on the intranet. Fine. I pulled another, older Windows laptop without any antivirus, connected it to an air-gapped router, configured DHCP in the router, connected the LIDAR to the router, launched the Ouster app and… it didn't work. After 3 hours trying to figure out what was wrong, I finally found the problem: the stupid app is an Electron app built with an older version of Electron that had a bug in node.js that prevented it from working if it couldn’t resolve some internet address. Sigh… Electron… Because of course… This was getting too painful and annoying with Windows. So I blew away the Windows partition, installed Linux Mint on the laptop, configured the ethernet interface as a private interface, installed the DHCP server so I could do away with the router, connected the laptop to the guest wifi so the stupid Electron app could resolve whatever it needed to resolve to work, installed the Linux version of the Ouster app, and hey-presto, it worked rightaway. So I made an account for the guys in Mint and handed them the laptop. They played with the LIDAR for a few hours without any problem, pulled records and files out of the machine on USB sticks without any problem, viewed some Excel files in Libreoffice without any problem. Eventually the marketing guy asked me: “So what was the problem then?” “Windows of course” I said. “What else?” “Wow. That Linux stuff is really good. We tried so hard to make this work but we never could. But it worked rightaway in Linux. That’s slick!” “Well yeah, I keep telling you guys Windows is crap. There are reasons and this is one of them.” “Yeah I can see why you don’t like it. And that Linux desktop is really nice actually. I might give it a spin at home.” So hey, I managed to impress a marketing guy with Linux 🙂 It shows how polished Linux has become, if ordinary computer users can be convinced this easily now. It wasn’t like that for a long long time and it feels kind of rewarding to know you bet on the right horse all along and you're vindicated at last.

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    If you need to run commands as root regularly with Rofi, you may find this useful. So let's say you want to run [usb-creator-gtk](https://launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/usb-creator/) to create a bootable USB stick. You have write access to the USB stick's block device but it's not enough: you need to become root. You can of course open a terminal and run `sudo usb-creator-gtk`. But it's kind of tedious if you need to do that more than once. If you want to permanently run that command as root, do this: - `sudo visudo` to edit the `/etc/sudoers` file. - Add the line **yourusername ALL = NOPASSWD: /usr/bin/usb-creator-gtk** - Confirm that you can now run the command as root without being asked your password: `sudo usb-creator-gtk` should pop the USB Creator window rightaway. - Create a desktop entry in your home directory that will override the system-wide one: `cp /usr/share/applications/usb-creator-gtk.desktop ~/.local/share/applications/` That way, when Rofi looks for available applications in drun mode, it will find your local usb-creator-gtk.desktop file before the system-wide file of the same name and will use the local one and ignore the system-wide one. If you'd like Rofi to list both, rename the one in your local directory to a different name from the system-wide one. - Edit ~/.local/share/applications/usb-creator-gtk.desktop: - Modify **Exec=usb-creator-gtk** to **Exec=sudo usb-creator-gtk**. - Modify **Name=Startup Disk Creator** to **Name=Startup Disk Creator (sudo)**, so you know Rofi picks your local desktop file over the system-wide one, or you can tell the sudo version apart from the normal version if you want to keep both listed. And that's it! Start Rofi, type "startup" and the autocompletion should list "Startup Disk Creator (sudo)" - and of course, selecting it should pop the window rightaway.

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    My preference is [Diodon](https://github.com/diodon-dev/diodon) - especially with the **Add images to clipboard history** option enabled. And if you enable the **Application Indicator** plugin, it lhappily stays as an icon in your system tray. The perfect clipboard for i3.

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    I use Remmina all the time to access remote computers through RDP and VNC. But it's annoying in i3 to open the main window, select a profile, then close the main window to leave just the remote session window. Remmina does have a command line option to dock into the system tray using appindicator (the `-i` option, i.e. "start as a tray icon") and right-clicking the icon does provide a quick access to saved profiles. However, there's a problem with it: when the last window closes, Remmina exits instead of staying docked in the systray- Unfortunately, the Remmina folks [won't fix it](https://gitlab.com/Remmina/Remmina/-/issues/2588) - and in fact plan of killing the systray icon altogether. There's always the possibility of making a small shell script that restarts Remmina each time it closes. The problem with that approach is, it a Remmina process doesn't terminate cleanly and stays in the background for some reason (it happens, especially if i3 is closed unexpectedly) then you have to open a terminal and kill the rogue remmina process, which is kind of a pain. Not to mention, if / when Remmina stops providing a systray icon, it'll stop working. So instead, since I use [Rofi](https://github.com/davatorium/rofi) as a launcher in i3 - like most everybody I believe - and Rofi supports custom scripts, I made a small script to parse saved Remmina profiles and add them to Rofi as a special mode, to provide quick access to them. As a bonus, when you're not using Remmina, it's not running and eating up memory for nothing. You can find it here, along with instructions to install it: https://github.com/Giraut/rofi_remmina_profiles_menu Kind of trivial, but I figured I'd share it in case someone else finds it useful.

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    If you remember Steve Ballmer as CEO of Microsoft, you probably remember him as a buffoon with his foot more often in his mouth than in his shoe, a disgusting ultra-billionaire and a general dirtbag. So I was properly surprised to watch his [interview with Jon Stewart](https://youtu.be/PdX3nOo7BCQ): he's created a website called [USA Facts](https://usafacts.org/) that actually seems to provide a genuine, much needed public service to this country, and against all expectations, the man really has interesting things to say for a change. Although, Ballmer being Ballmer, he also managed to make a really cringy Twin Towers comparison on 9/11. Because Ballmer... You can't polish a turd. Still, I encourage you to watch this interview: it's surprisingly interesting and a lot more profound than whatever you might think of Ballmer might have you expect. Unlike Bill Gates, Steve Ballmer might actually turn out to be somebody worthy of respect later in life after all.

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    Here are a few bindings in my i3 config file that I find super useful (bear in mind that I use a [Kensington Expert Mouse](https://www.kensington.com/p/products/ergonomic-desk-accessories/ergonomic-input-devices/expert-mouse-wired-trackball3-1/) and `Button8` is a suitably unusual but still easily clicked button on that trackball, so you may want to change it to something more suitable to your preferred pointing device): ``` # Clicking the title bar with the upper-right button closes the window (regular default binding, just different button) bindsym --release button8 kill # Scrolling over any window title bar controls the volume bindsym button4 exec pactl set-sink-volume @DEFAULT_SINK@ +5% && $refresh_i3bar bindsym button5 exec pactl set-sink-volume @DEFAULT_SINK@ -5% && $refresh_i3bar [...] bar { [...] # Clicking the empty space in the bottom bar with the upper-right button opens the launcher bindsym button8 exec "rofi -modi drun,run -show drun" # Scrolling over the empty space in the bottom bar controls the volume bindsym button4 exec --no-startup-id pactl set-sink-volume @DEFAULT_SINK@ +5% && $refresh_i3bar bindsym button5 exec --no-startup-id pactl set-sink-volume @DEFAULT_SINK@ -5% && $refresh_i3bar } ``` I find those bindings useful because unless a window is open fullscreen - which I rarely do personally - then there's always a window title bar at the top and the bar at the bottom. As a result, when I quickly want to lower the volume - when the missus yells at me in the middle of the night for example 🙂 - I can slam the trackball up or down and quickly scroll the volume down. Similarly, I can move the pointer all the way down and open the launcher with my unusual trackball button, and move all the way back up and close a window by clicking on the appropriate title bar with the same button, so that I don't really have to hit the keyboard most of the time for opening and closing simple stuff. Anyhow, I thought I'd share.

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    I love Louis and I've been following his videos for a long time. What he does is supremely important to our messed up society. But here's the thing: for the past few months, I've had the distinct feeling than each of Louis' videos is slightly more unhinged than the previous one. I mean I'm fully aware Louis' videos are not mainstream, and until recently, I've always felt there was a clear method to the randomness. But lately, it¨s been more randomness than method for me, and it's reached a point where I feel it's doing a disservice to the causes of right to repair and sovereign ownership. Am I the only one who feels this way? I really hate to come out saying this, but I really think there's something going on with Louis, and beyond the causes he fights for on our behalf - and goodness knows I'm eternally grateful for what he's achieved - I'm honestly a bit worried for him.

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    Apparently I installed that thing in 2006 and I last updated it in 2016, then I quit updating it for some reason that I totally forgot. Probably laziness... It's been running for quite some time and we kind of forgot about it in the closet, until the SSH tunnel we use to get our mail outside our home stopped working because modern openssh clients refuse to use the antiquated key cipher I setup client machines with way back when any longer. I just generated new keys with a more modern cipher that it understands (ecdsa-sha2-nistp256) and left it running. Because why not 🙂

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